If you love driving through landscapes so vast they give a new definition to solitude, there’s nothing like exploring a remote Scottish island by motorhome. And if you were to choose one particular isle on which to endlessly roam, make it the magnificent Isle of Mull. We’ve gone and crossed over from mainland Scotland to this corner of the Inner Hebrides and scouted this Isle of Mull road trip itinerary into existence. It’ll help you easily single out the best spots from which to experience Mull’s unique magnetism.
How to get to the Isle of Mull
Let’s help you on your way with some tips on how to get to the Isle of Mull. Unlike with an Isle of Skye road trip, you can’t get to Mull by bridge but will have to book passage on a ferry. Depending on the direction you’re coming from, Scotland’s main ferry operator Caledonian MacBrayne offers different routes to the Isle: Oban to Craignure, Lochaline to Fishnish and Kilchoan to Tobermory. Always book your ticket in advance especially if you're travelling in a (larger) vehicle on Calmac.co.uk.
Keep in mind that passages can get rough and running times are very weather-dependent. Especially in the darker months, when the Sound of Mull is exposed to unforgiving Northern Atlantic winter winds and swells.
A top tip for those setting sail or making port in Oban: don’t dare leave the harbour before trying the mouthwateringly fresh catch of the day at the Seafood Hut. Get there quickly, as it’s a first come first serve to their delicious oysters, lobsters, prawns, mussels and shellfish.
Where to stay on the Isle of Mull
Simple, in a motorhome or campervan. We recommend one with heating, even in the warmer months. Mull caters very well for those looking for an off-the-beaten-track, desolate camping experience and there are ample options to spend the night in the great wide open even in motorised vehicles.
For example, local authorities of the famously beautiful Calgary Beach allow campervans to spend the night in the car park for a small fee, as long as it’s just for one night. There are more park-ups like this to be found around the island, and there’s always the option to ask local landowners if you can spend the night on their grounds.
If you manage to find a legal spot to spend the night on Mull in a motorhome, make sure to always be respectful of all the island’s inhabitants (human and animal alike) and abide by rules and regulations for overnight parking in Scotland.
We also recommend checking out these best campsites for motorhomes on the Isle of Mull, as they don’t often come this calm and charming. Alternatively, there are quite a few quaint bed and breakfasts, inns and holiday cottages run by Mull’s ever-welcoming residents. Most of which are in equally rustic and remote locations.
What to do on the Isle of Mull
Now we’ve got you up to speed with how to get to the Isle of Mull and where to stay, let’s get to exploring! For reference, there are only a few roads on Mull. They conveniently loop themselves around the island, making this an incredible place to close the navigation apps, set off and see for yourself what stunning sight is waiting around the corner. To give you an idea of what you’re in for, we’re going to take you to our favourite spots in North, Central and South Mull.
North Mull — 2 to 3 Days
Let’s kick off in Tobermory, one of Scotland’s most exciting harbour towns. You might have stumbled into town fresh off the ferry or made the short drive up from the ports in Craignure or Fishnish. Either way, Tobermory is a lovely place to start (and end) your Isle of Mull road trip itinerary.
The little town is a vibrant sight, with a colourful, waterfront row of houses and pubs reflecting in the harbour’s clear water. Cobblestone streets meander past quirky shops and cosy pubs up the cliff the town is built into. Tobermory boasts maritime history, has a lively arts scene and is of course home to the famous Tobermory Distillery, where you can savour a wee dram to ward off the Atlantic chill.
Favourite Tobermory establishments not to be missed are The Pier Cafe for fresh fish and other scran, the infamous Mishnish for a rowdy evening with locals and other travellers, live music and good craic and the Western Isles Hotel for more of a white tablecloth dining experience with incredible views over the bay.
Tobermory is also from where Sea Life Mull, the longest-running whale-watching company in the UK, runs its excursions onto the open water in search of minke whales, basking sharks, dolphins, seals, eagles and even orcas. So if you’re here for the wildlife, make sure to book yourself onto one of their boats.
After spending the day and or night in the isle’s main town, start making your way in western direction towards the village of Dervaig. If you’re in need of a good pub lunch to recover from Tobermory’s nightly turmoil, your best bet in this area is the atmospheric Bellachroy Hotel or the beautifully located Am Birlinn for more of a restaurant experience.
Continue down the one and only narrow road towards Calgary Bay. Its namesake and pristine Calgary Beach has a reputation for being one of the most beautiful on the Isle of Mull, if not in the whole of Scotland. Although we don’t fully disagree, we’d argue that there are some equally if not even more beautiful beaches on the south coast of Mull, which we’ll get to later. Either way, anyone pulling up to breathe fresh sea air and go for a stroll on the pearl-white sand will understand immediately why this place is so well-loved.
If you’re keen to hang around this area a little longer and are in for stretching your legs, head in northern direction towards LangaMull and Port na Ba. These beaches easily compete with Calgary Beach’s beauty and being accessible by foot only, they have even more of a magical, solitude feel to them. Keep your eye out for herds of deer on the grassland and sea otters bobbing in the shallows along the way.
Continue looping around Northern Mull and back in southern direction. The road will lead you through farmland, where, if you’re here in spring, cute and curious baby highland coos will be roaming the fields. It’s a sight hard to pull away from, but force yourself as not far down this road Eas Fors Waterfall is awaiting your admiration. If you’re sure-footed, ramble down towards the cliff a little to soak up a spectacular view over South Mull while the waterfall crashes down beneath your feet.
If you’d like to add some extra islands to your island adventure, opt for one of Turus Mara’s tours to the Treshnish Isles. Their spring expeditions to these uninhabited sanctuaries for seabirds such as guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and even a huge population of puffins are a one-of-a-kind experience even for the most passionate of bird watchers.
They also venture to Staffa, Norse for ‘Pillar Island’, which refers to the natural phenomenon of Fingal’s Cave. This cathedral-shaped sea cave is made up of mysteriously perfect hexagonal basalt columns, similar to those of The Giant’s Causeway on the coast of Northern Ireland. If weather and waves permit, a trip to Staffa truly is one to remember and one we’d very highly recommend making.
Central Mull — 1 to 2 Days
You’ve completed your loop around Northern Mull, and are about to drive in western direction once more on the road from Gruline to Balmeanach. Now listen to what we’re about to say; savour this drive. This stretch in particular appears to lead you right off the edge of the world. We recommend timing it for golden hour, so you can quite literally drive off into a spectacular Scottish sunset.
When you make it past Balmeanach, don’t forget to look up as yet another stunning waterfall crashes down from the land above, into the valley and the sea. Grazing stags often prance through the landscape like they own the place, altogether making for a sight that’ll make your heart grow fawn-der of Mull by the minute.
If you’re on this stretch of coast during the day, you may consider climbing Ben More, Mull’s highest peak and one of Scotland’s Munros, which are mountains higher than 3,000 feet. The most popular route up its flanks departs from Dhiseigh, and is a relatively straightforward though steep ascent with a clear path for most of the way.
South Mull — 2 to 3 Days
If you’ve enjoyed scouring Mull’s shores for abundant sea life, you’ll be pleased to know some of Mull’s best marine landscapes are yet to come. Drive along Loch Scridain towards Fionnport. This charming village is known for its serene coastal atmosphere, with boats gently bobbing in its postcard-perfect harbour. Snack on local seafood at The Creel Seafood Bar, and grab a pint at The Keel Row where locals will lovingly tell you what beaches not to miss.
Fionnport is also the gateway to Iona, an island renowned in Scotland for its spiritual significance. It’s home to the beautiful Iona Abbey, which was founded by St. Columba in 563 AD and is a cherished destination among pilgrims. If you’re looking for a tranquil place to go on peaceful walks and reflect as far away from any hustle and bustle as you can get, Iona is the isle for you.
Now, as for Mull’s beaches, we may have saved the best for last. If you ask us, the tidal inlets around Fionnport are some of the most beautiful in all of Scotland. Crystal-clear waters gently lap onto white sandy shores, seals sunbathe on pinkish rock formations and if it weren’t for the icy water temperature, you’d likely believe it if someone told you’d been teleported to the Seychelles. Absolute gems around here are Fidden Beach, and its even more handsome brother Knockvologan Beach. Another one to check out when heading back towards central Mull and worth the 10-minute detour is Ardalanish Beach, which is a great spot to watch the sunrise!
When you’re done exploring the southwestern tip of Mull, simply head back along the road you came here until you get to Uluvalt, from where you can continue in eastern direction to complete your loop around this magnificent island. Don’t forget to stop at the Three Lochs Viewpoint for a glorious vantage point of inland Mull, if you haven’t grown tired of its endless vast landscapes yet. Pass through a couple more villages with options to grab a bite or pint on your way to Craignure if that’s where you started your Mull adventure, or continue on back to Tobermory.
Mull in a motorhome. It’s one of the best and least-travelled road trip itineraries in the Highlands. Check out our vehicles available for hire in Scotland, book your ferry and simply go and see for yourself what makes this isle so special.
